In some regions of Germany, there is a notable rise in the influence of far-right ideologies, leading to increased public display of such sentiments without overt political emblems. Researchers have observed instances where attendees at rallies for the Alternative for Germany (AfD) subtly showcased coded messages through everyday items like sneakers and T-shirts.

Brands like New Balance and Lonsdale are being utilized as covert signals for nationalist and Nazi affiliations, a practice gaining traction in Germany due to strict laws prohibiting the exhibition of Nazi symbols. This subtle signaling, as noted by Gideon Botsch from Potsdam University, ranges from explicit neo-Nazi symbols to more obscure references, creating a blurred line of communication within far-right circles.

For example, the “N” emblem on New Balance sneakers is interpreted as representing “nationalist,” while the abbreviation “NB” is linked to “Nationale Bewegung” (national movement). Similarly, the strategic display of Lonsdale sportswear forms the abbreviation “NSDA,” reminiscent of Germany’s National Socialist Party, enabling those in the know to recognize the underlying message.

Due to legal restrictions on Nazi symbolism in Germany, individuals within far-right movements have shifted towards using coded signals that remain within legal boundaries. This tactic allows them to convey their ideologies without risking prosecution for explicit displays of prohibited symbols, as explained by Sophie Scheuble from the Institute for Strategic Dialogue.

The transformation in the political landscape, particularly the rise of the AfD, has facilitated the normalization of such clothing styles associated with far-right sentiments. Fabian Wichmann, an expert on radicalization, highlights the symbiotic relationship between hardcore neo-Nazi groups and the broader populist right, with the AfD serving as a unifying platform for these ideologies.

While brands like New Balance and Lonsdale have been inadvertently adopted by far-right extremists, it is crucial to note that not all individuals wearing these labels are neo-Nazis. The resurgence of such brands among extremist circles underscores the evolving dynamics of far-right movements in Germany.

In response to this trend, brands like Lonsdale have recommitted to combating their misuse by far-right groups through anti-racism initiatives. Despite efforts to dissociate from extremist associations, the resurgence of these brands among such circles remains a concerning challenge.

In contrast, brands like Thor Steinar, known for their explicit Nordic and runic imagery, serve as clearer indicators of far-right affiliations. The historical controversy surrounding Thor Steinar’s logo, initially resembling banned SS symbolism, emphasizes the complex interplay between fashion, politics, and extremism in contemporary Germany.